A Long Climb into the Sky and Back
Into the Mountains II
Who, if I cried, would hear me among the angelic orders?
And even if one of them suddenly pressed me against his heart,
I should fade in the strength of his stronger existence.
—Rainer Maria Rilke, First Elegy, Duino Elegies
…. That is happiness; to be dissolved into something complete and great. When it comes to one, it comes as naturally as sleep.
—Willa Cather, My Antonia
The summer of 2017 I recorded my hikes into the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of South-Central Colorado beginning the first week of June, and ending with a three-day backpack from the North Fork to the Rito Alto trailhead in September. I write about birds and animals, flowers and trees, and the weather and geology. But I also write about the awesome nature of the terrain I am walking through, the tragic effects of climate change and the fear and euphoria I experience when I walk into the back country. As a seventy-two-year-old woman I was also preoccupied with my own aging and mortality. I wondered for how long I could keep hiking. I had difficulty resolving my own relationship to the landscape: resistance or surrender? The following essay records a kind of resistance where I exult in my triumph over the landscape. But other hikes lead me to a more sober response: one of humility and surrender.
From Walking the Stations in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains :
Venable September 6, 2017
“But when I look ahead up the white road/ There is always another one walking beside you.” —T.S. Eliot, The Waste Land
It is September and I am finally able to do the fifteen-mile, 4,000-foot elevation gain hike to Venable Pass, a long climb into the sky and back. Except for the first time I hiked with the Salida Skikers, or last year when I hiked with a friend from Evergreen, I do it with only my dog, Sarah. But because of Sarah’s recent bout with heat exhaustion, I decide to do it alone and leave Sarah with a friend. I drop her off the night before and am at the trailhead at five when it is still dark. I am always afraid to do this hike, of what might happen high up and far away. Last month, a friend wrote an article in the Eagle about mountain lions and their crepuscular habits. So, starting out this morning at dawn is like swimming in the ocean with the soundtrack of Jaws thrumming through my head. I keep a wary eye on the slope above me and periodically twirl around to check the trail behind me: a neurotic at large without her service dog.
Pretty soon there is sunlight as the trail levels out, and I can see up the valley to the mountains that surround North Crestone Lake. But at the fork, I will be taking the North Fork Trail, and the mountains on the east side of the valley will block and eclipse the sun’s light as they, like the moon, move across the sun with each step I take. I must cross the North Fork Creek three times, the same crossings with the raging currents I crossed last spring. But now the water is low, and I can walk across rocks laid as stepping stone bridges.
I was up here on Saturday with Sarah doing trail maintenance—mostly trimming aspens and willows that had encroached into the path. It was a trial run to see if the heat would get to Sarah again. And it did. Even with an infusion of chicken soup, I had to dunk her every time we crossed a creek to keep her from overheating. I miss her. She’s my constant companion, and I don’t like the feel of life without her.
As I cross the last big crossing and start a steep ascent, I suddenly feel chilled, and my hands grow cold. As I pull on my gloves, my shadow bursts upon the trail in front of me, and the rising sun warms my neck. My ears fill with the sound of birds, chipmunks, and squirrels beeping, and squeaking, and chirping, and greeting the day. Then the sun disappears again as I move back into the next mountains’ shadow and the silence returns. Up ahead, the high peaks are bright in the hazy light, shimmering in the smoke from fires a thousand miles to the west. I can even smell the smoke as I climb. I come upon beautiful blue evergreens, possibly white fir growing up the steep creek banks. They seem to like it here and be more resistant to bark beetle if not the budworm that has blighted some of their new growth. Up ahead is a grove of trees where I will cross a diminished version of the creek and a seep that never goes dry. The grove is lovely despite the fact that the big old-growth Engelmann spruce are now dead; they’ve been dying over the years I’ve passed here. But higher up, younger healthy trees are thriving, and I can only hope they’ll make it. Winter temperatures in the San Luis Valley historically used to go down to the minus forties and fifties. The warming earth and longer summer seasons coupled with years of implacable drought and diminished snowfall have weakened the trees and left them vulnerable. You don’t see living trees anymore as big as these dead Engelmann spruce, with diameters over four feet. I’ve never seen living trees this big anywhere I have hiked in the Sangres or the San Juans. Even the dying forests of today are new growth. I doubt we can ever go back to the ways things used to be. The big trees, those that Suzanne Simard would call “mother trees” are in the past.
At the foot of the big trees, someone has set up camp. The tent and cooking implements surrounding a fire ring augment my loneliness and I wonder where the campers have gone on this smoky morning. Through the trees, the mountains appear blue. As I climb the ascending trail, it takes me above tree line and into the Venable cirque. Twelve-and thirteen-thousand-foot peaks circle round a bowl of low willows turning ochre and rust and the clear blue of a tiny lake that feeds into North Crestone Creek below.
Up ahead, I see two riders on horseback; a man and his son are bringing back a mule deer they’ve killed and butchered. The boy, maybe ten, looks proud enough to burst. They both, despite their sun- and soot-darkened faces, have a glow that being in mountains imparts. I congratulate the man on spending this time with his son, and we wish each other well. Headed back to the camp I passed, they soon melt away into the vastness of the landscape, and I am alone again. In all the years I’ve hiked this trail, I hardly ever encounter another human being.
On my way up the trail, I pass a group of mountain or alpine thistles, plants that look like the vegetable kingdom’s equivalent of the lion fish; backlit by the sun, their white hair on fire, they become stationary comets that have parked themselves by the trail. These and Parry’s gentian are the only blooms this time of year; the gentian’s exquisite celestial blue rivals even that of blue columbine and sky pilots.
The ascent to Venable Pass is a series of switchbacks that, over the past three years, have left me breathless and feeling like my heart is being painfully squeezed right out of my chest. I have started swimming for aerobic exercise, and who would think that my lackluster performance in a pool twice a week could make such a difference, but this year I walk up to the pass with nary a twinge. Ravens circle behind me in the wide sky over the valley. Vocalizing to one another, they sound like airborne bullfrogs croaking and gurgling, the didgeridoo players of the mountain sky. Their circles are so wide, and the sky so big that I lose track of them. I wonder if they are moving in on the mule deer carcass somewhere below.
Overcoming my chest pain problem is huge. I feel elated and now only have to overcome my fear of heights as I pass across Phantom Terrace. I reach the top of Venable Pass at eleven in the morning. Hungry and tired, I decide that this year I will indulge in resting and eating part of my lunch before setting out across Phantom. The sky is cloudless, so there are no looming thunderstorms to beat. A third of this hike is above tree line so that is always a concern. I find a flat rock off the narrow crest of the pass facing east, out of the wind and overlooking two glacial lakes hanging above a vertical drop to the Wet Mountain Valley below and the Wet Mountains to the east.
At the top of the pass a hawk wheels into view, rides the updrafts from the valley, pivots, and air slides down the other side into the raven’s territory. I think he is gone but think again: at bullet speed, in a rush of air and wings that almost touch my face, the hawk races down the mountain only inches from the ground with a raven on top of him in pursuit. They seem to collide at the bottom of the trail, and then the hawk throttles up into the sky. Perhaps the raven has made his point because next I see the hawk making lazy circles; unencumbered by the raven bully, he rides the up draft over the lake. But this time he’s keeping to his side of the pass.
When I finish my meal, I set out on the trail to Phantom Terrace. The trail drops precipitously before it slowly begins an ascent to a second pass at the end of Phantom. Perhaps because I’ve allowed myself to stop and rest and eat, and because there is no ferocious wind this year, and because I make frequent stops to take pictures, I don’t feel my usual panic and vertigo as I cross the Terrace. The trail is narrow and at times it seems to disappear altogether, with only the faces of flat vertical rocks to scramble up. But as it enters an inclining rift, it becomes more defined just at the moment when, to my left, there is only a slim margin between the trail and a vertical drop of a thousand feet.
Across the way, layers of sedimentary rock lift up in frightening angles. According to geologist James McCalpin, this is evidence of the forces of earth at work, a rift mountain range created by the collision and separation of plates we cannot see. The upward thrust of the Sangres exceeds even the forces of erosion, forces mitigated by a skin of hard granite and gneiss that has been pushed over softer sedimentary layers. I am elated again as I reach the end of Phantom; the trail, like the hawk, seems to rise up and pivot on the crest of the mountain, the crest of the world, a crest so narrow as it recedes into space, it hardly contains the width of a footstep.
I have finished the two most difficult passages of this hike: the ascent to Venable Pass and crossing Phantom Terrace. Now I am ready to begin the long descent. Walking this part of the trail I always mentally celebrate my effort and my triumph over fear. The trail runs for a horizontal mile as it connects two mountains, Venable with Comanche. Up ahead, the southern part of the Sangre de Cristo Range stretches out before me like a Chinese painting—streams and mountains without end. Peaks move into peaks, folds fold into folds, and recesses of water and mystery hallow the sound of empty space. I am walking on top of the world. If I called out there would be no one to answer, but I do not feel alone. If I am embraced by angels, I do not fade away. I am my father’s daughter, my mother’s child, my child’s mother. I am here walking on the earth, and it is enough.
At the foot of Comanche, the path begins its gentle descent. The grade so easy and the bed so smooth, I can watch the mountains instead of my feet. When I reach tree line, I stop and eat a bunch of grapes I have saved.
Later, I pick up Sarah and head for home. Making dinner, I look out into the garden and see a Cooper’s hawk devouring a small brown bird. He tears and tears and gulps and gulps; he devours portions of red flesh and feathers alike until he eats the whole bird down to its last wing bone and then flies away. As I watch him go, I know what it is like to fly.



